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Jean Marc Quarin - What I know about the taste of the 2009 Bordeaux
What I know about the taste of the 2009 BordeauxChronicle n° 86 (October, 19th 2009)
2005 TROPLONG MONDOT has just been rated 100 points
In April 2006 (three and a half years ago now!), during the 2005 Bordeaux futures campaign, I gave it the perfect score of 20 out of 20 (or 100 points on the 100 pts scale).
Given the recent news in the wine world, I am currently receiving praise from happy subscribers who are thanking me for such early but so true guidance.
Dear readers,
You know that since September 1st, I am following the birth of the 2009 vintage in Bordeaux on a daily basis. This has become my main activity as I believe what is happening has never happened before. I do it in order not to miss a single step in a vintage that, each day a little more, takes on a historical path.
Like you, I hear many theories: 1947 Sauternes, 1961 reds ... In order to be sure, it is best to be witnessing it locally and from the harvest.
The most important point will be to tell you very soon what is the greatness of these wines and which will become the most popular. I hope that professional wine sales people will find this information useful to communicate to their customers and that they can anticipate on tasting the vintage. I also hope that amateur fans enjoy these reviews for the pleasure of feeding their passion.
And if this information helps you make bargains, to be the first, as it was the case for 2005 Troplong Mondot, good for you!
WHAT I KNOW ABOUT THE TASTE OF THE 2009 BORDEAUX
Since September 1st, you can read on my website the daily published notes about the vintage until October 16th. In this period of end-of-harvest and winemaking, perceptions are changing every day.
I relate below my analysis performed on October 7th and then on October 16th.
My analysis on October 7th
For the moment only the Merlots have begun to surrender their secrets. The cabernet franc are completing their fermentation. The cabernet sauvignon has barely begun fermenting. Some properties have even some cabernet sauvignon still unpicked. Yet, since October 15th the morning frosts have appeared on the lowest points.
1 / The Merlots are very high in alcohol. Many tanks are between 14 and 15 degrees. The height of this rate is history. The blend with cabernet franc and sauvignon should lower the final alcohol rate. However, on the right bank, many vats of cabernet franc are between 13.5 and 14.2 degrees alcohol.
2 / In general the pH of wines made from grapes harvested normally, i.e. neither too early nor too late ranged from 3.65 to 3.9 depending on whether the cultivation method is conventional or biodynamic. I was cited most often range between 3.75 and 3.80.
For now, the acidity of this vintage is therefore lower than that of 2005.
3 / With the mellow character inferred by alcohol and low acidity, but not critical as in 2003, one should expect a very strong impression of fleshiness and velvet on the palate.
Will the wines deliver a sensation of alcohol?
4 / Tannin ratings (IPT) are variable and rather in line with the standard normally found in each property. They vary from 66 to 90 and more. The tannins will create a nice balance with the softness. This tannin will not let the wine become mellow.
5 / Until now, some winemakers feared that this vintage may lack tannins. According to their analysis, they found anthocyane components responsible for the color but little tannin. Some tannins vendors (coppers) began to want to enjoy. I considered this remarks incomprehensible. It was enough to taste the first harvested vats from Pomerol to understand that this vintage has no shortage of tannin.
So for the Merlots, both on the right bank as well as on the left bank, this vintage is a success. It remains to be seen whether the high levels of alcohol will make the alcohol show during wine-tastings.
My analysis on October 16th, or 9 days later
My assumptions about the balanced character of the Merlot is confirmed through the tasting of wines from major estates.
The most exciting is to discover the taste profile of this new baby. In an atmosphere where professionals only cite figures of the historically high rates of alcohol, our imagination gallops. It takes over even before the taste is built and ready to be evaluated. Thus, some believe that 2009 will be monstrously powerful wines. I already hear (too quickly) about atypical characters, of “Californian” wines, of de-alcoholization, of lack of drinkability and, of course of climate change.
When the storm blows, it is good to cling to one’s basics. In this case, the benchmark remains wine tasting.
So, what have I learned and discovered in tasting the one Merlot or multiple Merlots at La Conseillante, Clos l'Eglise, Gombaude Guillot, Latour à Pomerol, Plince, Providence, Hosanna, La Fleur Petrus, Trotanoy, Canon, Angelus, Fonroque, Cheval Blanc, Palmer, Siran, Mouton Rothschild, Margaux, and Haut Brion ?
Above anything else, the wines are refined! I would say extremely refined and without an alcohol character!
While I expected these wines to be wide on the palate, almost awkward; they are distinguished for their refinement. They even perform rather classic with a nice acidity that leaves no room for either mellowness or boredom. They have an unprecedented velvety aspect, a full character, a soft and pulpy flesh of unexpected delightfulness.
Another surprise is that this sense of refinement also concerns white grapes: that is dry white wines (while some will lack vividness) as well as sweet wines.
So the question arises for the cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon. For the latter, we'll know in a few days. For cabernet franc, what I have started to taste makes me suggest a historically successful vintage for this variety. But let’s wait a little more…
For now, I have found no differences in taste or concentrated flavors, between Merlot harvested before the rain and those harvested after. I recall that some parts of Saint-Emilion and especially Pomerol experienced 80 to 100 mm of rain falls during two thunderstorms on Saturday, September 19th and Sunday, September 20. (See details on my website at http://www.quarin.com/2009.php.
I didn't find either harsh tannins on Merlot that were harvested early, that is before September 20th as predicted by those who analyzed grape skins as too thick and hard.
For information, I would also recall that Pomerol has a warmer soil and therefore ripens earlier than the limestone plateau of Saint-Emilion which is a little colder soil. Therefore it is normal to harvest earlier in Pomerol.
How to explain this refinement?
- Alcohol increases the sensation of stroking due to its fat character.
- A low acidity induces a silky touch on the palate.
- The absence of any green or vegetal character in the grapes removes any notions of catchy tannins. They are present but are not apparent!
-Merlot based wines have density and a very bright fruitiness.
I would add that it is rare to witness the combination of both tannin and aromatic intensity, i.e. perfume. These two factors only rarely coexist together. This was the case in 2005. This gave a genius character to that vintage. And I am finding it back again in 2009.
Accordingly, it is new and exceptional at this age, these wines that were just grapes a few days ago are already proving impossible not to swallow. They are particularly sensual.
Yesterday, Christian Moueix told me that he carried away at home with him samples of the morning to drink them at night.
This charm is so immediately strong that one can ask himself what is going to be added further through malolactic fermentation. It will enhance the sensual character of the vintage by reducing the acidity. But change will not be as radical as usual. Indeed, in 2009, the amount of malic acid is lower than usual.
Finally what improvements will be brought by barrel aging?
The intent of my question is to emphasize that some qualities often get lost during barrel aging. This is not normal. Barrel aging is made to enhance and not diminish. I do not think we should raise all the vintages the same.
Some are already thinking about reducing the duration or the proportion of new barrels in order to keep the beautiful fruit vibrancy. Others don’t think about changing anything. Hubert de Boüard said that the patina will be even more beautiful. For now, it's early to say. The fairest answer I've heard being said is that it is the state of the wine that will determine the condition of barrel aging.
Obviously, to be continued…
45 days of daily observations are available here: http://www.quarin.com/2009.php <http://www.quarin.com/images/newsletter/lien.php?link=aHR0cDovL3d3dy5xdWFyaW4uY29tLzIwMDkucGhw&uid=2751&lid=401&name=aHR0cDovL3d3dw==>
Jean-Marc Quarin