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Nov
17
Research & Development Tasting
Chronicle n° 88 (November, 16th 2009)
Episode One:
The tasting took place in Switzerland and in public on September 7th, 2009. It was performed blind, with undecanted bottles served in the order of the wines listed below. The organizer of this event has added four outsiders: 2005 Clos L'Eglise, 2002 Palmer, 2001 La Conseillante and 1990 Lynch Bages.
Episode Two:
An “audit” looking back at the 2005 vintage took place on October 12th, and in the same location. The wines were taken from the same original wooden cases. The organizer has added the following wines: 2005 Chateau Margaux, 2005 Ducru Beaucaillou, 2005 Troplong Mondot and 2005 Pavie.
We set out to live an aesthetic moment. Yourself by reading the announcement of this comparison, don’t you dream?
Lafite Rothschild, this refined Pauillac, in comparison with L’Evangile, such well located Pomerol. That is enough to awaken our taste buds in a clash of styles, or even of typicality, given how much the two growths are opposed by their grape varieties and soil. Moreover, they belong to the same owner, which usually guarantees a philosophy of similar work. Therefore, an equal interpretation should limit the impact of human factors in the results of taste.
Well, in fact, that is not the case. All these assumptions, ideal on paper, did not find meaning in the reality of this tasting
Results
1 – L’Evangile emerged winner of this comparison.
Since the commissioning of the new vat cellar (in 2002) and the arrival of M. Vazart, L’Evangile, ideally located next to Petrus and La Conseillante, comes out from its reserved character. My ratings improve since 2002. Conversely, those of Lafite stagnate or even decline to the point that today Mouton Rothschild comes ahead.
2 - What a surprise! Overall, neither the public nor myself were able to distinguish in majority Lafite from L’Evangile.
So what about the terroir effect? What about the effect of grape varietal? I recall that Lafite is composed of 80 to 90% of cabernet sauvignon and L’Evangile is made from 80 to 90% Merlot.
This result confirms my assumptions about the underestimated magnitude of the terroir of the wines from the Pomerol plateau. Since this tasting, some Pomerol winemakers also expressed to me their difficulty in recognizing L’Evangile from Lafite. I spoke recently with Annabelle Cruse Bardinet (from château Corbin in St-Emilion). She said that her father, although coming from the Médoc, preferred largely Certan Giraud in Pomerol (now labeled Hosanna) to the great wines of the Medoc. So, is a classification for the wines of Pomerol lacking? Surely they would gain notoriety.
3 – The disappointing results for Lafite, for almost all the years which were tasted, are a real worry. Besides, it is not the first time such underachievement has been noticed. I believe such lack of consistency from one bottle to the next exists in any growth, but isn’t it the duty of a brand to ensure its hallmark is present in the bottles it produces?
Regarding the difference noticed from one bottle to another, which I have been mentioning now since 2002, I met Allan Sichel, a wine merchant and very much in favour of the Bordeaux City Bond, a couple of days ago.(See my chronicle 84 dated September 18th). We talked about what would be the right temperature for wine transport. Around the same time, I received a press release from Eprovenance( www.eProvenance.com). Eric Vogt, who is the President of the Commanderie of Bordeaux in New York, has devised an electronic card that can record the temperature in wine boxes, thus enabling buyers to know if the cases they have bought have been kept in satisfactory conditions during transportation. “For great wines to be sold in a satisfactory manner, they need a similar protection scheme to the cold chain for the food and pharmaceutical industries” Eric Vogt says. Bordeaux City Bond approves of the plan for a traceability developed by Mr Vogt.
Some wine merchants seem to be against such a plan. It is indeed never easy to alter one’s working tools. However, it is true to say that many a box is kept in conditions that buyers would be unhappy about. In a context in which the power and influence of producers largely dominates that of wine merchants- it was the exact opposite for a long time- any check on the distribution network could be regarded as an evaluation tool on traders by producers. But wine merchants should have no fear! Indeed, some effort remains to be done in châteaux to ensure a real consistency in taste from one bottle to the next. How many of them have, for instance, a vat cellar to homogenize their production before the wine is bottled? And what about the corks?
Contrary to Asia and America, Switzerland is quite nearby. But since 2002, it is during wine tasting sessions taking place in Switzerland that the lack of consistency in bottles has been noted for wines bought as futures.
The enthusiasm to do better will definitely be a step towards progress. It is not acceptable anymore to pay a lot for wines and have the feeling one is playing Russian roulette on opening a bottle.
For the record, the cost for the comparative wine tasting session was of 9, 800 euros (current worth). It led to more disappointment than gratification. As for the checking session that resulted from it, its cost amounted to 2, 300 euros.
Episode Two:
Puzzled by the 2005 findings, we decided to taste Lafite and L’Evangile again one month later. We slipped them among Château Margaux, Ducru Beaucaillou, Troplong Mondot and Pavie. All were tasted blind. Amazingly enough, the results were quite unexpected…
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Flight One: 1998
1998 LAFITE ……………………………………………….. 15,25 // 87
The color is close to L’Evangile, both intense, dark and
with blue hues.The nose is also close, with more freshness. Yet, it
isn’t pleasant. There is a wet wool and slightly burnt character.
Soft on entry, the wine performs slightly discreet, then evolves warm
and caressing, yet lacking depth on finish. The only positive aspect
is the fact that it finishes with no toughness, in fact in contrary
to other tastings. Drink up.
1998 EVANGILE …………………………………………… 16,5 // 90
The color is just slightly more evolved than Lafite. The nose
of this wine could be purer. Slightly vivid on entry, it picks up a
dimension and evolves tasty on the palate over woven and quite fine
tannins. It is a pity that the finish is marked by a burned wood
character.
Wait until 2013.
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Flight two: 1994 with an outsider: LATOUR
1994 LAFITE ……………………………………………….. 15 // 86
Showing an evolved color of medium intensity and similar to
l’Evangile. The two noses are very similar too and difficult to
distinguish. In this case, Lafite delivers an aggressive, difficult
to describe and disturbing character. It performs a bit light on the
mid-palate, and finishes firm. This is a wine that lacks charm and
construction. In no-way does it taste like Lafite and its 99 %
cabernet sauvignon.
1994 EVANGILE …………………………………………… 15,75 // 88
Showing an evolved color of medium intensity that is similar
to Lafite, this wine offers a nose that is unpleasant in which a
burnt character dominates. Clear on entry, the wine develops
melting over good density and a quite distinguished tannic weaving,
despite slightly vivid tannins on finish. It can be consumed now, but
lacks charm. Drink before 2020.
Outsider : 1994 LATOUR …………………………………… 15,75 // 88
Showing an evolved dark red color of medium intensity with a
curious nose, this wine is enjoyable on entry. It then develops
aromatic, with taste and good body, yet its tannins lack ripeness
on finish. Medium length. Drink now and before 2015.
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Flight three: 1995
1995 LAFITE ……………………………………………….. 16 // 88 - 89
Once more, the color of this wine is similar to that of
l’Evangile: a red Bordeaux color evolved towards brown. With a
fruity yet very discreet nose, this wine performs soft, fruity and
caressing on the palate, yet is marked by a hot alcohol
characteristic. More enjoyable on finish, yet still a bit firm.
Medium length. Wait until 2014.
1995 EVANGILE - corked.
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Flight four: 1990 with an outsider: LYNCH BAGES
1990 EVANGILE …………………………………………… 17,75 // 94 - 95
As expected, the color is more evolved than that of Lafite. On
the contrary, stupendously, both noses are impossible to
distinguish! As for myself, I make a mental note of the specific
Pomerol tar character of this wine. Suave on entry, the wine
develops aromatic, powerful, and sweet, with the expression of an
ageing bouquet. Tannins on finish are not the ripest that could be
found; the style is old, but the taste is well sustained on finish.
Good length. Drink now and before 2015-2020.
1990 LAFITE …………………………………………….. 15,5 // 87 - 88
Showing a dark and slightly evolved color with a slightly
metallic nose, this wine offers a mushroom character and overall a
very imprecise aromatic signature. It lacks fruit vibrancy. On the
palate, this wine begins caressing, then quickly delivers catchy
tannins and finishes over a medium length, with little pleasure. This
wine shows all the symptoms of an off bottle. For sure it isn’t
corked, yet it does not fit with the model of this wine.
Outsider: 1990 LYNCH BAGES…………………………… 15,75 // 88
Showing a quite evolved color and a nose that lacks ripeness,
with a green character. Aromatic on the palate, this wine offers a
silky body that develops an ageing bouquet of aromatics that evokes
cedar. Yet, this wine lacks picking up volume on the palate. It
finishes over melted tannins and gives the impression that it
requires early drinking. Usually, it offers a very animal character
on the nose and a powerful palate. Not this time!
To be continued in my next chronicle, online on December 1st.
Jean-Marc Quarin