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Feb
04
Jean Marc Quarin - Chronique n° 92 (February 1st, 2010)
Chronique n° 92 (February 1st, 2010)
FEEDBACK TO THE "LAFITE VERSUS L'EVANGILE" CHRONICLE (continued)
In terms of bottle variation, here is another interesting reaction to my publication of the Lafite versus L’Evangile Chronicle. It comes from Ms. Claire Laval, owner of Chateau Gombaude Guillot in Pomerol.
“ I Just wanted to concur with Alain Vauthier regarding the quality of corks which seems in my opinion to be a major factor (although probably not the only one) of the variability found in bottles. Especially since the mid 1990s. It would be very interesting to conduct a study (I would almost like to say an investigation) on the recent history of cork oak forests. What happened in the mid 1980s (10 years before the triggered period), so that problems of TCA (trichloro-anisole) burst to this point (almost unknown to the battalion of old bottles). Did it experience organo-chlorinated based insecticide treatments (which have very long half-life)? ”
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2006, 2004, 2003, 1996 PAVILLON ROUGE AND CHATEAU MARGAUX
The tasting took place in March 2009 at Château
Margaux with general manager Paul Pontallier. The intent was to
compare the expression of these vintages at the opening of the bottle
(not decanted) and after having decanted part of it.
Several ways of decanting
There are several ways to decant a wine. The best known
and most used is the laminar decanting. The wine slides slowly and
steadily on the side of a decanter, a carafe or an empty bottle.
The other way is called turbulent decantation. It is
characterized by a chaotic and swirling pouring. It means the wine
making a "gurgling". This type of energetic decanting ignores
suspended particles in the wine. Instead, the laminar decanting seeks
to separate the solid parts from the liquid. Well, imagine that
depending which one is performed, the taste of wine changes. Why? I
confess that I do not know yet. In the summary below, the decanting
was laminar. When we transferred "violently" part of the bottle of
the 2003 vintage, I preferred its outcome. It has been some time now
that I have introduced in the field of my work some tasting notes
taken from the same bottle tasted after laminar decanting and tasted
not decanted. For now, producing each time a third tasting note would
be too much strain. However, I invite you to try decanting for
yourself just a few moments before consuming a wine.
Results
The wine always performs better on the palate once
decanted rather than non-decanted. But this is not always true for
the nose (so what is the solution?). Sometimes decanting induces a
loss of intensity and subtlety in the flavors of some wines, but
not others. Each bottle represents a particular world.
2006 PAVILLON ROUGE
ND………………..16,25 // 89
D………………….16,5 // 90
Pleasure score……16 // 88-89
Showing a glittering, dark and still youthful red color, this
wine offers a more intense and finer nose on the non-decanted
tasting. It is both fresh and very fruity, smelling very good. On
the contrary, on the palate, the decanted version performs better.
If not decanted, the wine seems to drop on finish. Therefore, with a
simple pouring, it gains in performance on finish by improving its
fatness and depth. In both case, it keeps its melting and very tasty
character. Decanting makes it easier to appreciate; otherwise, it
keeps a discreet and slightly austere aspect which is justifiable
given its youth. Wait until 2015 and drink before 2030.
2004 PAVILLON ROUGE
ND………………..16 // 88-89
D………………….16,25 // 89
Pleasure score ……15,5 // 87-88
Showing a lovely, vivid and shiny red color of good intensity,
this wine offers similar nose tasted decanted and non-decanted.
Getting into deeper details, I would even say that the decanted
version slightly appears a tad vegetal. I explain that due to the
loss of fruit coverage during pouring. It delivers an elongated
shape on the palate, finely pulpy and with perfectly coated
tannins. This wine performs well, very delightful and with a
beautiful aroma on finish. Decanting it induces more fat, length,
and expression as well as more presence on the mid-palate. I
recommend waiting 2015 and until 2025-2030.
2003 PAVILLON ROUGE
ND………………..16,5 // 90
D………………….16,75 // 91
Pleasure score……16,5 // 90
This wine has the darkest color of this flight. Both nose are
similar, offering a well ripe fruit. Those escape from the vintage
profile thanks to their fresh character of incredible intensity.
Hmm…such softness, sweetness and fine raspberry liquor taste. The
wine melts and slides on the palate, both very hedonistic and full at
the same time. It is delicious! Coated on finish, it performs with no
harshness whatsoever. It is a wine of pure pleasure. Once decanted,
the wine gains more tactile nuances, improving its pulpy character,
and moving forward with a high profile. It is more intense on finish
and adds up a notch of classical lift to its hedonistic character,
thus distinguishing itself even further. Taste now and before
2025-2035.
1996 PAVILLON ROUGE
ND………………..15 // 86
D………………….15,5 // 87-88
Pleasure score……15,5 // 87-88
Showing a dark and evolved color of medium intensity, both nose
are similar. The presence of an aging bouquet distinguishes it from
younger wines. Its aromatic character is also less ripe than in
recent vintages. Its creamy character is seductive, but the nose is
neither complex nor deep. “Another generation of wines” said Paul
Pontallier. While slightly lacking body on the palate, (due to a less
ripe fruit than recent vintage) this wine offers the typical and
mysterious softness of Bordeaux wines that reach their peak. This
softness will get magnified through decanting it. Its length is more
defined by aromas than body. Drink now and before 2018.
2006 CHATEAU MARGAUX
ND………………..17,75 // 94-95
D………………….18,25 // 95-96
Pleasure score……16,5 // 90
Showing an intense, dark and lovely red color, this wine offers
a very aromatic, fine, fruity, complex and particularly fresh nose.
Once decanted, it performs more complex and sweeter. On the palate,
it is a concentrate of softness and mellowness, with plenty of taste
and richness on the mid-palate. The wine finishes long, very tasty
and a tad vivid when non-decanted. Decanting it improves its volume
on the palate, its fat sensation and length on finish as well as the
mellow character of its tannins. Wait until 2017 and drink before
2040.
Note that since this tasting; I have retasted this wine twice,
including one purchased bottle. I have always rated it consistently
18.25 // . Above all, it appears slightly better than the 2004 thanks
to a superior fruit ripeness.
2004 CHATEAU MARGAUX
ND………………..17,75 // 94-95
D………………….18 // 95
Pleasure score……16,5 // 90
Showing a lovely intense and dark color, the nose of this wine
is similar decanted and non-decanted: both very fruity, fresh,
perfumed and intense. On the palate, it performs all in softness of
texture and flesh, with a melting character. It finishes a tad vivid
with fine tannins. The profile on the palate is modified by decanting
it. This wine then expands over more space and with more nuances. It
finishes improved, over fine and nobles flavors. Wait until 2015 and
drink before 2030.
2003 CHATEAU MARGAUX
ND………………..19 // 97
D………………….19,5 // 98
Pleasure score ……17,5 // 94
Showing an intense, dark and slightly evolved color, the nose of
this wine is very similar decanted and non-decanted: fine, subtle
and very fruity. A wonderful scent of blackcurrant, smoke and
grilled nuts dominate the glass. Marvelous on entry, this wine
develops sweet and refined in its aromas and touch. It offers a
magnificent, rich mid-palate, where the wine tightens its weaving
and picks up a Bordeaux style. Its superb finish ends over aromas.
When tasted young, I used to find it more tannic. Yet, its tannin has
melted in order to make some space for the great taste of Château
Margaux. It is totally impossible not to swallow!
Decanting it raises further its hedonism through a more apparent
creamy character. While of more powerful aspect, this wine never
loses its exemplary melting character. As such, I compare it to the
1990. It ends over a great and fine finish of praline aromas. The
pleasure score is very high for a wine of such youth. For those of
you who are hedonists, taste it now! And before 2030-2040.
Right now, this wine finishes above 2003 château Latour and Montrose which have lost their sweet character
1996 CHATEAU MARGAUX
ND………………..18 // 95
D………………….18,75 // 96-97
Pleasure score……17 // 92
Showing a dark and slightly evolved color, once decanted, the
nose performs better, appearing creamier, and more complex, it
expresses a bouquet of ageing that cannot be felt if non-decanted.
Decanting it transforms this wine on the palate. While already sweet,
it gains some nuances of blackcurrant and ink. The density is more
coated and above all its complexity becomes amplified. This 1996
delivers the softness due to its age and the freshness of still young
cabernet sauvignon. It is both delightful and touching, with a very
sophisticated grain of tannins. It finishes less vivid than the
non-decanted wine. I have tasted this wine many times, and was often
slightly disappointed. This vintage of château Margaux needs to be
prepared at the right temperature and also to be decanted. (I
remember a diner in Bordeaux where bottles had been spread across a
table. All were surprised not to find more satisfaction. Competitive
attitude or lack of knowledge?)
When this wine is not in shape, it can take an irritating stiff
character. Thus, I have often said to Paul Pontallier that my
preference would go for the 1995. Yet, that day, this bottle did
sing. Wait until 2013-2015 and drink before 2035.
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HEART’S DELIGHT
2008 LA CLOTTE Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classé……………………………………. 17 // 92
I have just retasted this wine with plenty of happiness. It is
so good that I literally sipped the sample during several meals
over the weekend! My friends were very surprised to enjoy over a
meal such a young wine, that is not even bottled yet. Intensely
colored, then offering a fine and fruity nose; this La Clotte 2008
is distinguished by an unparallel mellow character on the palate and
has a dense body while many 2009 are lacking such density. It is a
delight, a fruity pleasure that melts on the palate and reveals
itself impossible to spit out. 2008 is the best vintage to date from
the estate. Just to remind you, the rating of this wine has kept
climbing since my tastings as futures. More details are available
inside the wine reviews database at www.quarin.com.
Contact : chateau-la-clotte@wanadoo.fr
Jean-Marc Quarin
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This publication is the original work of Jean-Marc Quarin Sarl,
10 allée de Ginouilhac, BP 40, Le Taillan-Médoc. France. - E-mail :
jmquarin@wanadoo.fr.
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